SELECT FROM OUR wide array of quarried stone for building retaining walls. Snapped stone is 'snapped' by hydraulic chisels to give an even wall depth. This 'work horse' of retaining wall materials is available in depths of 6", 8", and 12". With a wide selection of thickness', snapped stone is a material that fits in almost any landscape.

AT MADISON BLOCK & STONE we have boulders sorted in sizes ranging from those easily moved by hand to those requiring machinery. Our boulders are generally round in shape and are available in a wide range or colors.

CONCRETE WALL SYSTEMS are lipped or pinned and are adaptable to fit among wall projects. Stop in to Madison Block & Stone to view our array of available styles, face textures, and colors.

TUMBLED CONCRETE WALL SYSTEMS are the newest way to create a wall with an aged appearance. Uniquely textured, these wall systems will expand the design possibilities for any landscape.

1. LAYING IT OUT- Walk around your yard visualizing where color is needed. Use your garden hose or a string to shape and outline. Often, with sloping land, the outline of your retaining wall is dictated for you. However, with a little elbow grease, you can move mountains. If your retaining wall is 4' or more you'll need to terrace it. (Ask for step-by-step advice.) 2. FOOTINGS- The most critical step in building your wall is making certain it's built on solid, well-drained footings. Along the entire length of the wall, dig a trench 6" deep and 6" wider than the width of the flagstone. Tap it solid with your feet. Add two lifts, 3 inches each, of Best Buy 3/4" driveway stone. Compact and level each lift. Then lay the first course of flagstone 2" from the front edge of the trench. Lay the second course of flagstone directly atop the first, staggering joints as in bricklaying and setting the stone back 1/2". Fill behind the wall with gravel. 3. DRAINAGE- Just below the ground on the inside of the wall, lay the PVC drainage pipe atop the gravel, holes facing down. Eliminate any sags in the pipe and elevate one end slightly so that water will drain downhill (usually, your land's natural slope will decide which end is down). Cover pipe entirely with remaining gravel. 4. "TILT BACK"- For every 1' of height, your wall should "tilt back" 1" or so for added stability. Beginning with the second course, start creeping back slowly. 5. BACKFILLING WITH TYPAR- For stability, backfill the wall as you add courses. For erosion and weed control, use Typar polypropylene between the gravel and the soil. Fill dirt to level of gravel, taping the dirt and gravel firm with your feet. To lay the next layer of stone, fold Typar over soil. Repeat after each course. 6. "DEADMAN" ANCHORS- For every 8" in height, and at intervals of 2 to 3 feet, lay stone at right angles to the wall, with the front edge flush, the back edge buried into the earth behind the wall. This "deadman" stone should be at least 20" long (so that a full foot sticks into the side of the hill). 7. FINISHING TOUCHES- Continue laying courses, adding deadmen and backfilling over Typar as you go. Lay your last course of stone on top of Typar. Cut it as necessary so it doesn't show. Try to reserve your best stones for the top. Backfill to level of stone and water thoroughly. Plant flowers or lay fresh sod. Admire your work!